Imtisenla Jamir | Mokokchung | January 11
Almost all the Naga women used the loin loom or back-strap loom, a traditional weaving method, to weave the vibrant ethnic inspiration. Each Naga tribe has its own distinctive motifs on its traditional clothing. Professional weavers have also revolutionized traditional clothing by eclipsing more contemporary styles.
Traditional weaving is practiced in Nagaland, especially in the rural areas where it provides a means of subsistence for many people. However, over the recent years, proficiency in the art of weaving, especially among younger women, has declined drastically.
According to Arennungla Longkumtsür, a senior sales assistant of NHHDC Ltd (Nagaland Handloom & Handicrafts Development Corporation Ltd), Mokokchung the decline in weaving is contributed by the fact that attention has been paid more to education than to the art of weaving.
“Today’s young women lack knowledge and understanding of how to weave,” she said, adding that young ladies these days have not received any key weaving knowledge from their parents.
She highlighted that if she asked a young woman of today to bring one weaving item, she wouldn’t be able to, “since she would be deficient in understanding of what is named and what are the implements used in weaving.”
Aren further explained how Akhoya and Ungma villages were the main suppliers of traditional woven garments to the market but currently, there is less or no supply.
“Akhoya villagers are no longer coming to the Watsü bazaar in Mokokchung, where they used to sell handloom ethnic items,” she said, adding that people are now less inclined to weave.
“Even the cost of traditional apparel has increased,” she stated, and observed that it will slip away if there is no surge of interest and if weaving skills are not pushed.
In order to boost the weaving skills among young girls, Aren believes that holding weaving competitions among the young girls for at least one day can inevitably boost and impart weaving skills in girls in some way.
She also mentioned that educating young girls about government aid programs and how to get access to it could help pique their interest in weaving.
“The only thing a lady needs to be aware of is how to handle a handloom and its name,” she said. “Even pebbles and twigs can provide a considerable amount of money, but few people seem to be cognizant,” she said, and that “too many of us are sluggish today,” concluding that “government hand-outs had produced no farmers.”
Similar views were expressed by 55-year-old Achila Pongen of Longmisa village who owns and operates a store named “Ola-Angla” or “Taka Mapa,” which translates as hand-woven at MMC Shopping Complex, Mokokchung.
According to her, because education is being considered more significant as compared to weaving, youngsters are spending more time studying and hence, weaving culture is not being carried on to the next generation.
She further added that the introduction of weaving machines, with their mechanical adjustments made people more reliant on them, and thereby contributed to the decline of the indigenous style of weaving in the community.
Achi, who had been running the shop since 2017 said, the demand for ethnic products in her shop is high especially during October, where the wedding season usually begins.
“People usually buy them for gifts,” she said, adding that the majority of her items are obtained in bulk from residents of Akhoya village. She added that Etsüng Sü (shawl) is brought from Wapangla (Süngratsü) and Aienla (Mopungchuket), both of whom are stationed in Dimapur.
Meanwhile, a 40-year-old woman, Amenla, from Chare Village, who resides in Tzüsapang sector, Mokokchung, admitted to weaving on her own loin loom for herself and her customers. It is indeed worth noting that she started weaving at the age of 15.
Speaking on how women’s participation in weaving has changed through time, she stated that most women now favor silk thread clothing on looms. Despite the loin-loom method’s extreme slowness and laboriousness, she pointed out that intricate Naga clothing designs woven using the old traditional method are more well-liked by customers.