Indigo or ‘osak’, once integral to Ao Naga culture, is no longer cultivated or used. Historically, indigo dye was significant in weaving, traditional attire, and the Ao cultural identity. The decline of osak can be attributed to various factors such as modernization, changing fashion trends, and the introduction of synthetic dyes, which are cheaper and easier to produce. However, we must realize that the loss of osak symbolizes a broader erosion of cultural heritage in the face of rapid globalization, but there is still hope for its revival.
The loss of osak has far-reaching cultural, economic, and environmental implications. Traditionally, indigo was used to dye clothes, including the ‘Ao sünak’ and ‘Remtu sü’, a carrier of identity in Ao society. Its unique deep blue shade was valued not just for its aesthetic beauty but for the symbolism it carried. That is why, to this day, the phrase “Ao sünak abener ajak” to denote the whole Ao community finds relevance although almost nobody practically wears it. With indigo’s decline, Ao weavers shifted toward synthetic dyes, leading to a loss of traditional craftsmanship, a weaker cultural connection, and environmental harm from chemical alternatives.
Reviving indigo in Ao culture requires a conscious and concerted approach, involving collaboration between the community, government, and educational institutions. First, osak must be reintroduced to Ao regions through agricultural training programs, encouraging local farmers to adopt this crop once more. Indigo farming is eco-friendly, enriching the soil and requiring minimal chemical inputs, making it a sustainable agricultural practice. Financial incentives and subsidies could motivate farmers to switch back to growing indigo.
Second, educational campaigns are vital in promoting the cultural importance of indigo. Ao youths, many of whom may no longer recognize its significance, should be taught the history of indigo and its role in their community’s identity. Artisans and weavers should be encouraged to reintroduce indigo-dyed fabrics into their work, with exhibitions, fairs, and markets dedicated to showcasing indigo textiles.
Finally, the economic benefits of indigo revival could be considerable. The global demand for natural, eco-friendly products has been steadily growing. By positioning indigo-dyed Ao textiles as a premium eco-conscious product, we could attract new markets, both locally and internationally. This would not only revitalize an important cultural tradition but also provide new livelihood opportunities for farmers and artisans.
Reviving indigo in Ao culture is not just about reviving a tradition but embracing a sustainable future that connects the past with modern economic opportunities. Through concerted efforts, indigo can once again thrive as a cultural and economic asset of the Ao Nagas. Yes, the term used here is ‘revive’ and not ‘preserve,’ because an art form like indigo dyeing, which has already been lost, cannot be preserved but only revived.